Glycolic
acid derived from sugar cane is by far the most frequently used AHA.
AHAs have revolutionized the effectiveness of many skin-care products.
Amino acids (peptides) – the body's building blocks, amino acids
make up proteins that are present in our skin and hair. They should be
present in any cosmetics.
Ascorbic acid – this is the chemical name for the basic molecule
of vitamin C, also known as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Derivatives are used in skin-care products because the pure vitamin is
unstable and very irritating to the skin.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can lighten pigment, and is one of the
most popular constituents in products today. Be sure to discover it in
any cosmetics, especially in your anti oxidant cream.
The most common BHA – Beta hydroxyl acid – is salicylic acid.
These acids are anti-inflammatory and exfoliating agents, so are useful
in the treatment of spots and acne. The acids are necessary ingredients in your anti oxidant cream.
But note that BHAs cause sensitivity reactions if overused. Ceramides are
normally found in the skin and help it to retain moisture.
Co-enzyme 10 (Q10) occurs naturally in the skin and is an antioxidant and
antibacterial agent. Levels of Q10 decrease as we get along in years and
this may play a crucial role in skin repair. However, the claims made for
Q10's anti-ageing properties are unsubstantiated. It is very important
to have Q10 in your cosmetics.
Collagen is a very large molecule and evidence does not support the suggestion
that it can penetrate the skin. This ingredient can only sit on the skin's
surface where it gives very little benefit.
Green tea is a popular ingredient and can be found in everything from face
creams to depilatory waxes. It contains polyphenols that have antioxidant
and anti-inflammatory properties. These effects may explain why cold tea
bags are applied to the face to reduce swollen eyes. Research is promising
so don't throw the idea out with the tea bags.
Hyaluronic acid is an essential protein found in the skin. It has very
powerful moisturising properties, able to attract over 100 times its weight
in water. But it needs to be at the correct concentration to work.
Lanolin obtained from wool and used as a barrier to reduce water loss from
the skin's surface is a frequent cause of sensitivity reactions to products,
so read the ingredient list carefully. Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant
and anti-inflammatory agent. Often these ingredients are put into sunscreens
to fight free radicals made by sunlight.
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